2015 Batard Montrachet

Deeper and riper on the nose than the Bienvenues-Bâtard, offering aromas of yellow peach, menthol, smoke and stone. Surprisingly smooth, supple and full in the mouth, with its penetrating peach fruit (Jadot buys grapes from the Puligny side of the cru) conveying an impression of solid dry extract. This wine seems almost more approachable today than the Bienvenues-Bâtard but it also has more stuffing to support aging. Finishes generous, sweet and long. Incidentally, Jadot just announced the purchase of Domaine Prieur-Brunet in July, which will give them a small additional parcel of old vines in Bâtard-Montrachet on the Chassagne side of the appellation.

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is much more reserved on the nose than the 2015 Bienvenues - austere, stony and stoic, gaining intensity after 5-10 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp line of acidity, a slight bitterness on the back palate but it fans out nicely to a spicy finish, even if it does not quite have the panache of the Bienvenues at the moment.

Tank sample. Sold out. Lots there. Greener notes than in many years. Was it picked relatively early? Strange to reproach this for its very obvious acidity when so many Jadot whites seem too sweet to me! A puzzle. Very youthful and unformed and far from its peak. (JR)