2015 Riesling Idig Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Hints of lanolin and resin from a newish cask don’t disturb one’s appreciation of ripe peach and Persian melon that combine for a forwardly aromatic and quite lush, subtly oily palate impression. Piquancy of peach kernel and lemon peel provides welcome counterpoint, augmented by stony, smoky and incisively peppery notes on a superbly sustained finish not in the least lacking for refreshing primary juiciness, while subtle salinity serves for welcome salivary stimulation. Too many growers during the first decade of VDP-Grosse Gewächse succumbed to the belief that bigger is better, and that in judging wine’s seriousness by how many mineral descriptors seem appropriate, one also judges it as serious to the extent that it doesn’t display generous fruit or deign to refresh. Steffen Christmann, VDP chairman since 2007, has moved his own Grosse Gewächse consciously and conscientiously in the direction of alcoholic moderation, and in addition, the wines seem increasingly unapologetic in offering generously juicy, ripe fruit. This 2015 installment of Idig is a delicious case in point. (Admittedly, it’s the sole 2015 vintage Christmann Grosses Gewächs to be labeled “13 percent alcohol” as opposed to “12.5 percent.” But it displays not the least sense of heaviness or heat.)
Critic scores
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Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Riesling Idig VDP.Grosse Lage exhibits an intense golden-yellow color and is wonderfully intense on the nose, promising an almost exotic fruit richness and aroma. Elegant and delicate on the first palate, then generous and juicy in fruit and texture, balanced and elegant, this Idig combines richness and concentration with finesse and elegance. It has a powerful, intense and spicy, long-lasting finish. Tasted at the Rebholz Kastanienbusch/Christmann Idig/Wittmann Morstein vertical tasting in Westhofen in late August 2024.
Pale greenish straw. Nutty, interesting nose with some elegance. Racy too. Molten honey satin texture without being particularly sweet. Full and interesting – quite a contrast to the same producer's Mandelgarten! (JR)
Noble oaky flavors intertwined with a perfume of ripe stone fruits, lemons, herbs and crushed stones open to the very deep, complex and concentrated 2015 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Trocken GG. This full-bodied, powerful, round and juicy, yet vital and finesse-full Riesling reveals a dense and silky texture. The wine is structured with fine tannins and a highly elegant, mouthwatering and mineral acidity. The oak is still detectable in the beginning, but gets very well integrated with (some hours of) aeration. The finish is pure and salty, as well as powerful, sappy and aromatic. The 2015 Idig is very fine, but also compact and powerful. This will need some years to unfold its great character.<br><br>After his excellent 2014s, Steffen Christmann has bottled another great range of 2015s. "2015 is well succeeded," he says, adding that "everything was ideal when you were able to be quick and punchy." Since the harvesting windows have become smaller and smaller in the past years, team Christmann was pretty big this year again--and that was crucial to get everything in before overripeness occurred. "We managed to pick 1.5 hectares per day," he says. Again, Christmann harvested all of his vineyards in only two weeks, between September 14 and 30. Grapes where botrytis was already on its way were kept on the vines during that time and picked no earlier than around October 10. "These berries turned from golden-yellow to pink and purple in a matter of 14 days," he says. These grapes were picked on one day and finally resulted in the very few noble sweet wines Christmann produced (Auslese and Beerenauslese). Jul 2016, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2020-2030