2014 Batar

50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Bianco. ‘A rainy, mild winter was followed by a cool spring, with the exception of a warmer spell in March that caused early budburst. Wet weather with abundant rainfall, and occasional hailstorms, lasted well into July and August, followed by an exceptionally mild and dry September that certainly helped maturation.’ Harvest 2–16 September – so a fairly narrow picking window in 2014. Low volume. Hint of putty on the nose. A tiny bit crisper than some but still a fine wine. Not quite the follow-through of the top vintages. (JR)

The 2014 Batàr, Querciabella's Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco blend, comes across as a bit light in this vintage. The flavors are bright, lifted and nicely articulated throughout, with plenty of citrus and white flower notes. I find the mid-palate somewhat lacking in depth today, which also results in the oak standing out, even though the 2014 only saw about 15% new barrels. I would be tempted to see if the 2014 fleshes out with more time, as it had been in bottle for only a month or so at the time of this tasting. To be sure, Batàr is much more shy as a young wine than it used to be back in the years when lees stirring and a higher percentage of new oak played a greater role in the wine's feel.