2015 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese

This was the first – among very few – wines in the 2015 Prüm lineup to lead with a bit of yeasty fermentative “Mosel stink,” but that veil soon parted more than sufficiently to showcase an alliance of ripe honeydew melon with cassis, grapefruit, and hints of cress and lemon peel that subsequently lend incisive, piquant invigoration on a delicate, polished, infectiously juicy palate. Penetrating and sharply focused, but without its efficacious and enlivening acids turning at all aggressive, the tinglingly, refreshingly citric yet soothing and cooling finish serves up a shimmering array of stony, smoky, alkaline and crystalline nuances.

Prum's 2015 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese is clear, intense and flinty on the nose, very precise but well concentrated; however, it is the most reductive of the Spatlese quartet. Round and piquant, with a stimulating fruit and salinity, this is a very well-defined, crystalline and straight Spatlese of great finesse and elegance. It needs five years or so to unfold all its talents, but it can surely age for 20 or 30 years.

The 2015 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (AP 12 16) is clear and flinty on the nose, finesse-full and piquant on the palate, with a lush and sweet stone fruit aroma. The acidity is pretty fine and vital, but the sweetness is quite prominent, especially in the (sweet and salty) finish.