2004 Barolo Big'd Big

The estate’s 2004 Barolo Big ’d Big is an expansive wine loaded with primary fruit. Although it doesn’t show the complexity of the Santo Stefano it does offer tons of fruit in a big, powerful style. Here, too, the oak is very well integrated. The wine shows remarkable balance and poise with awesome textural richness and power. Notes of smoke, tobacco, earthiness and licorice emerge with air, but this remains a distinctly fruit-driven style of Barolo typical of the Mosconi vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini has endured a series of personal tragedies that no one should ever have to experience. The separate losses of his mother, father and brother in just over a year is truly saddening. Hopefully Migliorini might find some small comfort in knowing that this is the finest set of wines his estate has ever produced. The 2004 Barolos are particularly impressive from top to bottom. The wines possesses more transparency than I have ever seen here. The estate still favors 100% new French oak but prior to bottling most of the wines spent 6-12 months in 2-3 year old larger French-oak casks, which has given the wines an extra dimension of transparency. The Santo Stefano, Vigna d’ la Roul, Riserva 10 Anni and Pianpolvere Soprano Barolos all spent or will spend some time in cask, while the Big ‘d Big is now the only Barolo to be aged exclusively in barrique. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Good bright dark red. Aromatic nose combines redcurrant, smoke and tobacco. Rich, supple and sweet, with lovely ripe acidity giving balance to the wine. Finishes with rather sweet, soft balance and no aggressiveness. This should offer early appeal.