2011 Colore del Testamatta
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Tasting notes
One-third each Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. After a warm spring and early budburst, June and July were cooler than normal. Then it turned very hot with scorching temperatures in August leading to dehydration and sunburn. For the first time, Graetz did not trim the vines. Cool nights in the Autumn helped preserve aromatics. Raisined notes much more evident on the nose. Soft, enveloping fruit on the palate, which is voluptuous and weighty but makes 2011 Colore a little hefty compared with the preceding vintages. Still a fine wine but less smooth and not as harmonious. (AH)
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
With fruit from 60-year-old vines, the 2011 Colore is a precious blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. This is a highly singular wine made in very reduced quantities (only 2,000 bottles were produced). This mid weight expression shows a dark garnet color and moderate luminosity. That muted color is recognized across the very artisanal wines made by Bibi Graetz. The quality of fruit is bitter and raw and there is some sourness on the close. Having said that, enthusiasts will appreciate these one-off wines, especially with regards to how they relate to the strong personalities that create them. Lingering ash, smoke and dark licorice add subtle elegance on the finish. The only point of contention is the price tag.
1/3 Sangiovese, 1/3 Canaiolo, 1/3 Colorino from Bibi Graetz's oldest vineyard, about 60 years old. Very luscious and sweet. Sweeter nose than some of the other Bibi Graetz reds. A bit too tart on the end. Wild! Seems a bit extreme. But then so is the price... (JR)
This is opulent and fresh with cedar, berry, tobacco and orange peel aromas and flavors. Medium body, firm tannins and a flavorful finish. Precise and powerful center palate. Fabulous length. A blend of sangiovese, canaiolo and colorino. Better in 2019. Jul 2016, www.jamessuckling.com
About the producer
Based just outside Florence, Bibi Graetz is something of a maverick in the Tuscan wine scene. Working with old vineyards of indigenous grapes around Chianti, he produces intense wines classified as IGT Toscana; not fitting neatly in either the Super Tuscan or Chianti camp.