2015 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese (3 star) GK

The 2015 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is clear, fresh and concentrated on the nose nose where deep and smoky flavors of crushed stones are displayed, giving just a hint of the true potential of this wine. Round and seamless on the palate, with perfectly ripe but vital and fresh fruit, this has a gorgeous mineral raciness and tension. There is also a quiet stream of perfectly balanced and concentrated melting stones and very fine salts that flows over the palate. This is an exiting, very well structured and tightly woven Riesling legend that will still fascinate wine lovers in 50, 60, maybe 70 years. This is a laser beam of great Riesling, tight and concentrated but still not that open like the corresponding Wehlener.

A haunting nose conveys ripe white peach, rowan, and almond extract as well as a decadent suggestion of lily perfume. This sets up an expectation of creaminess and enveloping richness that is not entirely confounded on the palate, but an intense alliance of brightly juicy fresh lime and piquant peach kernel provides a remarkable sense of cut and energy. Hints of caramel and sorghum add allure to a whirl of finishing flavors that manages not to turn sweet-sour or otherwise unruly, while mineral salts contribute mouthwatering savor of a sort rare in a botrytized Auslese and otherwise displayed in the present collection only by the astonishing "two-star" Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese.

The sweet 2013 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** is another laser sword in the armada of starred Ausleses. Pure and precise but less smoky and cool on the nose than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr it intertwines darker smoky stone aromas with ripe orange flavors and tropical fruit aromas to build up a very clear, deep and aromatic bouquet. Full, sweet and round on the elegant palate this is still a very delicate, pure, perfectly balanced Auslese of great complexity. The finish is juicy and lingering, mineral scented and perfectly balanced with lush fruit. The wines is less filigreed than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.