2015 Brauneberger Riesling Trocken J

One of those nowadays too-common “initialed” bottlings of German Riesling that dare not (per VDP ordinance) speak its name, this year’s 12 percent alcohol J actually incorporates a bit of Juffer-Sonnenuhr with its dominant Juffer fruit. It delivers generously juicy apple and lime suffused with crushed stone on a firm palate, with chewy, piquant apple skin, apple seeds and lime zest as well as peat-like smokiness serving for invigoration on a gripping, glowing finish. More austere than its generic counterpart, it trades some of that wine’s delightful buoyancy for a palpable sense of impressively high extract, not to mention sheer length.