2014 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St Urbain
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Tasting notes
2014 was "the most expensive harvest ever" in the history of Zind-Humbrecht, "double the average," stated Oliver Humbrecht, who yielded only 26.5 hectoliters per hectare in the grand cru vineyards and 42.5 hectoliters per hectare in the generic Alsace AOC. Humbrecht's intensely golden-colored 2014 Riesling Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann is still reductive and untamed after all those years and reminiscent of game as well as crushed volcanic stones (or ashes), salts, herbs and lush peaches. This is a full-bodied, intense and very mineral or rocky Rangen with flesh and tension but also a long, saline, finely tannic and, some would even say, austere finish. The 2014 doesn't show any signs of the fruit fly drosophila suzukii that contaminated so many pink-colored grapes in late August and September with acid rot, which caused severe selections in the vineyards. Due to the cooler month of August, the 2014 Rangen Riesling is marked by lively acidity that Oliver Humbrecht calls "a really unexpected surprise in such a precocious vintage." In fact, it has at least the same level as the 2013 or 2010. The 2014 Rangen was bottled in February 2016 with 12.5% alcohol and 5.5 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted in Wachenheim, Pfalz, in November 2023.
Critic scores
Average Score
Ian D'Agata
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Pale yellow. Cool aromas of green apple, lychee, chlorophyll, powdered rocks and crystallized ginger, lifted by a whiff of orange peel. Dense and quite dry, displaying superb precision to the stone and spice flavors, which are complemented by a suggestion of chewy tropical fruits. Classic Riesling that finishes long and with superb cut and focus. Made from roughly 50-year-old vines.
Quite deep golden copper colour. Nervy edge of ginger on the nose. Bone dry. This tastes like a risk-taking wine. An intellectual challenge. An Alsace Krug. Only worth the money if you have already bought into ZH. (JR)
RS 5.5 g/l, TA 4.6 g/l (sulphuric), pH 3. Sweetness code 1 = technically dry or tastes dry. Pale pinky gold. Marked spice notes – like burnished gold, if gold were to have an aroma. Deep and rich and viscous, so generous and apparently gentle and yet with sustained intensity and length, the citrus kick coming in on the finish. Depth of flavour without heaviness or weight. (JH)
About the producer
Widely acknowledged as one of the legendary wineries in Alsace, the wines of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht are nothing short of magical. Certified organic and biodynamic, the estate crafts an extensive range of wines, including many Grand Cru and single-vineyard bottlings.