2012 St Peray Lieu-dit Payrolles

I was able to retaste the 2012 St Peray Payrolles (reviewed last year and rated 92) and it showed gorgeously this go-round, with rock-star aromatics of honeysuckle, apple blossom, liquid rock and white flowers. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, seamless blend of 100% Marsanne over the coming 3-4 years. These wines are from a partnership between Michel Chapoutier and the Pic family (who run the incredible three-star restaurant, Pic, in Valence).

Vivid gold. Lively, mineral-tinged aromas of ripe orchard and pit fruits, with a sexy floral nuance adding complexity. Deep, densely packed and broad in the mouth, offering ripe peach and poached pear flavors and emerging hints of honey and smoky minerals. In a powerful style, but with surprising vivacity and excellent finishing power and breadth and a repeating floral note. I'd put this complex wine up against plenty of whites from Hermitage.

(all old-vines marsanne, from an all-granite vineyard): Bright yellow. Explosive, mineral-accented aromas of dried peach, poached pear, honey and licorice, with a smoky accent building with aeration. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering intense orchard and pit fruit flavors and a suave, floral quality on the back half. Closes long and spicy, with superb clarity and a whiplash of chalky minerals. This one will give most white Hermitages a run for their money.