2015 Ermitage Les Dionnieres

Smoked earth, blueberries, blackberries, graphite and huge minerality all emerge from the 2015 Ermitage Les Dionnières, which comes from older vines planted on the eastern/lower section of Hermitage, in more sedimentary soils. It saw a touch stems and 20% new oak. Full-bodied, concentrated, stacked and packed, with sweet, building tannin, forget bottles for 4-6 years and enjoy over the following two+ decades. The only downside to these latest releases from Ferraton? They’re made in tiny quantities and there’s just not enough to go around. For readers who don’t know, this estate is managed by Michel Chapoutier, yet they have their own vineyard sources and winemaking team.

An interesting study in contrasts and complexity, the 2015 Ermitage Les Dionnières is at once herbal and ripe, red and black-fruited. It's not as powerful or concentrated as the Le Méal bottling, but it offers gentler tannins, red currant and blackberry flavors and hints of green peppercorn. It's still a terrific wine and should drink well for at least two decades.

Opaque ruby. Heady scents of dark berry liqueur, candied cherry and incense; notes of Indian spices and smoky minerals emerge with air. Shows superb clarity and lift to the palate-coating blackberry, fruitcake and candied violet flavors, which pick up a smoky mineral nuance on the back half. Deftly marries richness and vivacity, finishing with powerful dark fruit thrust and fine-grained tannins that sneak in late.