2003 Vray Croix de Gay

A big, brawny offering stuffed with licorice-infused, rustic black cherry and plum-like fruit, the dark ruby/purple-tinged, dense, ferociously tannic 2003 is somewhat uncivilized. It needs time in the bottle to calm down, and if the tannin fades before the fruit, it will be a surprisingly long-lived, enjoyable Pomerol. If not, it will represent a weighty, heady wine lacking charm. Apr 2006, www.robertparker.com