2015 Haut Brion

Stately, muscular, nuanced, waves of toasted cumin, black tea, pomegranate, sandalwood, cloves, smoke, tar, tobacco, intense and concentrated, clearly decades ahead. Rich and powerful, leans into the fingerprint of the vintage but makes it its own. Jean-Philippe Delmas estate director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director. 78% new oak for ageing.

The 2015 Haut-Brion is much less flamboyant and expressive on the nose compared to La Mission, but it is very nuanced with those signature game and roasted chestnut scents percolating through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, wonderful balance and poise. It's lightly spiced with a dash of black pepper and cumin on the finish. I usually have the La Mission out in front but in this contest, I'm erring toward the First Growth. Tasted at the 2015 Ten-Year-On tasting at Bordeaux Index.

The 2015 Haut-Brion has a gorgeous bouquet of great amplitude, featuring lush but controlled red berry fruit laced with chestnut and hints of game, all generous and intoxicating yet not overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with quite an oaky, coconut-tinged entry. Surprisingly savory, almost animally in style, it feels warm and fleshy and also a few years more mature than I would have anticipated. Thoroughly enjoyable, but a strange showing compared to previous encounters that were sheer perfection. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting.