2014 Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes

(from 90-year-old vines on "very Chambolle soil" in the heart of the cru, next to de Vogüé's holding, according to Laurent; 100% destemmed): Dark red-ruby color. Deep, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, iron and wild herbs. Like liquid velvet on the palate but without quite the inner-mouth tension and lift of the grand crus from Gevrey-Chambertin. Perfumed and slightly liqueur-like but almost too easygoing. This atypically supple young Bonnes-Mares has plenty of support from serious toothdusting tannins. Not ringing my bell today: I wanted more complexity.