2014 Volnay Clos des Chenes

(40% vendange entier ): Healthy bright, dark red. Deeper-pitched than the Carelles, offering aromas of dried flowers and earth. Densely packed and thick yet light on its feet; a very spicy, soil-driven wine that's rich and salty but uncompromisingly dry. Finishes with rather powerful tannins that will need a good bit of time to harmonize with the wine's fruit. Austere in the early going. For his part, Bouley believes that ten years of cellaring "is a minimum for premier crus." He added that this wine has "big character; it's lunatic and unpredictable, and very closed today. In contrast, Volnay Frémiers is always open and sweet."

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes includes 40% whole bunch fruit this year. In some ways, it has a more conservative bouquet than the les Carelles or the Caillerets. Thomas said that he once vowed never to add whole bunch fruit, but he decided to do so this year and feels that it adds freshness, a bit of light to the dark. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannin. More saline than its peers, this has a mouth-sapping intensity with great linearity and focus towards the sustained finish. Once those aromatics open, this will be a serious Volnay for long-term aging.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes includes 40% whole bunch fruit this year. In some ways, it has a more conservative bouquet than the les Carelles or the Caillerets. Thomas said that he once vowed never to add whole bunch fruit, but he decided to do so this year and feels that it adds freshness, a bit of light to the dark. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannin. More saline than its peers, this has a mouth-sapping intensity with great linearity and focus towards the sustained finish. Once those aromatics open, this will be a serious Volnay for long-term aging. Dec 2015, www.robertparker.com