1994 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive
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The 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive has an odd nose: a mélange of Tokaji Aszú and toffee aromas and a bit of apple strudel. The palate shows decent delineation, but it doesn't possess the complexity of the Pinot Gris Heimbourg VT. The finish is muffled and not enticing for a return sip. When its identity was revealed, I couldn't help thinking this would have been better 10 to 15 years ago. Tasted blind at Olivier Bernard's "4" dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.
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Robert Parker
Robert Parker
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The stunning, golden 1994 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive displays a hugely botrytised, smoke, honey, spice, and exotic fruit scented nose. This decadently-textured full-bodied wine coats the taster's palate with spice-laden mangoes, super-ripe apricots, and sweet peaches. It is a domineering wine, massive in its intensity of flavors and structure, yet remarkably maintains elegance and balance. Projected maturity: 2004-2020+.
Made from tiny yields, the 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl V.T. exhibits a light golden color, huge, smoky, buttery aromas, high acidity, currant/cherry-like flavors reminiscent of a red wine, in addition to a finish that lasts for well over a minute. It is mind-boggling in terms of its purity, extract, and balance. The wine is extremely unevolved, requiring another 4-5 years of cellaring; it should keep for 30+ years. This 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris is virtually perfect. I tasted four Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris offerings from the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in 1994. Almost all were made from yields that averaged one-half to just over a ton of fruit per acre! Their alcohol levels are in the 15%+ range. Readers should recognize that all of these wines take concentration, extract, intensity, alcohol, purity, and mouth-savoring characteristics to the maximum. In short, they represent the essence of great winemaking - tiny yields from profoundly well-placed vineyards, spectacular concentration and balance, and the potential for 25-30+ years of ageability. Depending on the level of acidity (unusually high in this vintage) these wines taste off-dry rather than moderately sweet. To reiterate, only the greatest Montrachets from Burgundy attain this stature. And if the truth be known, these wines are richer and more ageworthy than most Montrachets. With respect to the recently released wines, Olivier Humbrecht stated that he had never seen such intensely ripe Pinot Gris with such high levels of acidity. The importer for the Zind-Humbrecht wines for most of the United States is Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and for the state of California, Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.
Made from tiny yields, the 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl V.T. exhibits a light golden color, huge, smoky, buttery aromas, high acidity, currant/cherry-like flavors reminiscent of a red wine, in addition to a finish that lasts for well over a minute. It is mind-boggling in terms of its purity, extract, and balance. The wine is extremely unevolved, requiring another 4-5 years of cellaring; it should keep for 30+ years. This 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris is virtually perfect. Jun 1996, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Widely acknowledged as one of the legendary wineries in Alsace, the wines of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht are nothing short of magical. Certified organic and biodynamic, the estate crafts an extensive range of wines, including many Grand Cru and single-vineyard bottlings.