2014 Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes

Full, bright medium red. Aromas of raspberry, black cherry and menthol are complemented by an element of sweet oak. Sweet but tightly wound; in fact, this wine is currently dominated by its tannic backbone. No shortage of flavor intensity here but I find it tough going today. Méo told me that he always considered his Chaumes to be a gentle wine and thought it needed more structure. So he vinified a high-acid 0. 5-hectare parcel together with a 1. 5-hectare site that normally produces a sweet, supple, elegant style, rather than waiting to make the blend prior to the bottling. Today I find something a bit raw to the tannins. Will they soften during the final months of élevage ?

The 2014 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru les Chaumes has a light, rose petal-tinged bouquet that needs more encouragement from the glass than its 'classmates.' The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure. It has a slightly chalky texture and feels tightly wound on the finish\, which makes it feel shorter than I think it really is. I suspect it will spread its wings after bottling.

Blackcurrant and blackberry aromas and flavors are complemented by licorice, smoke and spice in this taut red. Sports density and concentration, yet manages to stay elegant and lively on the long aftertaste. Mar 2017, www.winespectator.com, Drink: 2020-2038