2014 Pommard Jarollieres

Dark ruby-red. Reduced, musky aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and animal fur; smells chunkier than the Volnay Clos des 60 Ouvrées. Fat and sweet in the mouth, conveying a slightly roasted quality but also a touch of greenness to its black cherry flavors, along with a hint of leathery reduction. Strong tannins are buffered by the wine's solid material, but the roasted/herbal quality suggests that the grape sugars outpaced phenolic ripeness in the lead-up to the harvest.

The 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Jarollières contains 30% of vines planted in 1925, the most recent in 1990. It has a very dense nose: a wall of black fruit that does not let you past to feel the terroir, at the moment. The palate is structured with a firm backbone, grainy tannin and layers of blackberry infused with cold stone; this leads to a linear and correct finish that is not in the mood for playing around. Give it 3-5 years and make sure you like Pommard, though personally, I have a ken for the domaine's Volnays.

The attractively fresh, cool and markedly restrained nose only grudgingly reveals its more deeply pitched nose of plum, dark currant, earth, forest floor and discreet game hints. There is a sleek muscularity to the intense and relatively powerful medium-bodied flavors that possess evident minerality on the structured finale that is quite firm but not especially austere. I very much like this and it is recommended provided you have the patience to cellar it. (April 2016), www.burghound.com