2014 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

(60% new oak):Bright, deep red-ruby. Fascinating, slightly wild nose combines black cherry, licorice, violet and sexy oak spices. Boasts a wonderfully refined texture and superb inner-mouth stony tension to the high-pitched flavors of dark berries and violet. Less creamy than the Champeaux as it's still youthfully imploded but communicates an impression of full ripeness without loss of acidity. Compelling fruit intensity is perfectly leavened by saline minerality. This utterly compelling premier cru finishes with suave, fine-grained tannins and terrific length and lift. This wine is never high in alcohol, according to Mortet, who added that even the 2015 weighs in at a moderate 12. 8%.

Dark purple. Quite introvert on the nose. Exceptionally sweet on the palate. Really rather fun! Has the structure to last. (JR)

The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques is matured in 60% new oak and comprises 20 barrels this year from five different parcels. There is more fruit concentration compared to the Champeaux or the Champonnet, very pure with raspberry, cranberry leaf and cold granite. The palate is medium-bodied with good concentration, a little more bold than Arnaud's other premier crus. Although, I would have liked just a little more weight to come through on the finish. Let's see if this fleshes out by the time of bottling.