2014 Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Michel Lafarge's 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs has a disjointed bouquet that seems to miss the fruit intensity of its peers within this flight. This is broody, rather mean and leaves you wanting more. The palate is medium-bodied with stringy tannin, quite Pommard-like in style due to the structure and some austerity that comes through on the finish. A bit feral maybe, though I appreciate the uncompromising nature of this wine, and maybe it will meliorate in bottle. Given the pedigree of the producer, it would not surprise me to see this improve and lift toward my original banded score from barrel. Tasted September 2017.

Medium red. The most vibrant and penetrating of the 2014s I tasted at Lafarge in December, conveying excellent peppery lift to the aromas of cherry, menthol and minerals. Youthfully tight but quite juicy, showing a distinctly primary character to its red berry and spice flavors. Not especially fleshy or sweet but sappy, savory and tactile, finishing with firm but well-integrated tannins and superb length. From barrel, this wine was overshadowed by the Clos des Chènes but in the bottle it looks to be clearly superior.