2014 Charmes Chambertin Les Mazoyeres

(30 hectoliters per hectare produced): Good deep healthy red, the darkest of these 2014s to this point by a wide margin. Fresh scents of dark cherry, minerals, licorice, smoke and earth. Broad, fat and sweet but nicely sappy; I'm not sure I would have picked the vintage blind. The fine-grained black fruit flavors carry impressively through a very long finish. This highly concentrated, edge-free, youthful wine really saturates the mouth and stimulates the taste buds.

(from the estate's oldest vines, planted in 1902; vinified with 80% whole clusters; the crop level was a solid 35 hectoliters per hectare): Healthy dark red. Very ripe aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice. The richest and largest-scaled of these 2014s to this point, displaying very concentrated but primary flavors of medicinal black cherry, blackberry, menthol and minerals. Big, dusty tannins are nicely supported by brooding black fruits on the very long, rising finish. The grapes here are always affected by millerandage and there are rarely any bad berries, Vincent told me, adding that this cuvée is always the easiest to vinify as well as "our most concentrated wine." This vineyard is the source of Domaine de la Vougeraie's massale selection for replanting.

The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 80% whole cluster fruit this year, a high percentage due to the age of the vines planted in 1902. There is fine delineation here, precise black cherry and cranberry scents with a touch of cold granite. It is a nose that demands respect, deservedly so. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple black and red fruit, very pure and smooth with a graceful, marmalade-tinged finish that lingers. This should grow up to be a very seductive, comely Charmes-Chambertin with a long future ahead.