2010 Meursault Les Charmes

In 2010, the Meursault Charmes is defined by precision and cut. A pure, crystalline wine, it shows fabulous balance and tons of pedigree. White stone fruits, pears, apples and jasmine all come to life as the wine virtually sparkles on the palate with its irrepressible energy. The finish is exceptionally beautiful, polished and vibrant. This is one of the most taut, tense Charmes readers will come across. Roulot is quite candid in explaining that his location in Charmes is not optimal. Instead he believes organic farming, practiced here since 2000, is the main reason the Charmes is gaining in minerality as the years pass. Incidentally, Roulot made the same comment on the Meix Chevaux. Regardless, this is an utterly magnificent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. (Not yet released) Jean-Marc Roulot commented that 2010 was easy in the vineyard but not so simple in the cellar, mostly because of very long malolactic fermentations that did not finish until the following August! The harvest started on September 17 and the wines came in with 12.8 -13.5 natural alcohols, which is at the higher end of the range for the domaine. Because of the lengthy malos, the 2010s were bottled a little later than normal. The 2010s are quite representative of the year in that they have considerable richness and at the same time high acidities. They are remarkably vivid, expressive to site and flat-out gorgeous. Readers will notice a new wine in 2010, the Auxey-Duresses, and can look forward to a new Clos de la Baronne and Clos des Boucheres with the 2011 vintage. Roulot fans will also want to be on the look out for Jean-Marc Roulot’s new line of eau de vies, an old family tradition that goes back many generations. The Framboise is one of the most pure expressions of fruit I have ever tasted, while the Abricot, made from Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave’s organically grown apricots in St. Joseph, is a bit more honeyed and liqueur-like.Unfortunately, my bottle of the Poire eau de vie broke, but I hope to be able to taste it soon. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Very rewarding on the nose. Open and indeed charming. Very fresh and precise with the merest hint of struck match. Racy and very fine, though not a massive leap in quality above his non premiers crus. Not quite as precise as, say, Tessons nor as dense as Tillets. Jean-Marc Roulot admits his Charmes vines are not the best situated. (JR)

In 2010, the Meursault Charmes is defined by precision and cut. A pure, crystalline wine, it shows fabulous balance and tons of pedigree. White stone fruits, pears, apples and jasmine all come to life as the wine virtually sparkles on the palate with its irrepressible energy. The finish is exceptionally beautiful, polished and vibrant. This is one of the most taut, tense Charmes readers will come across. Roulot is quite candid in explaining that his location in Charmes is not optimal. Instead he believes organic farming, practiced here since 2000, is the main reason the Charmes is gaining in minerality as the years pass. Incidentally, Roulot made the same comment on the Meix Chevaux. Regardless, this is an utterly magnificent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Aug 2012, www.robertparker.com