2012 Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Grattamacco

The 2012 Grattamacco also pours a deep red/brick color. In the glass, savory aromas of crushed Mediterranean herbs come to the fore along with notes of black raspberries, leather, sappy herbs, turned earth, and crushed flowers. Full-bodied, it has a balanced linear drive that focuses on the palate, with its characteristic saltiness and refreshing nature, supple, ripe tannins, and delicate notes of sweet orange citrus through the long, tapering finish. This is a fabulous vintage in the range. Drink 2025-2040.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. Good for both quality and quantity. The year opened with a somewhat severe winter, capped by snowfalls in February, rather rare for the area. Moderate spring rains scattered over April and May encouraged a textbook flowering and fruit set. Summer was hot and dry, often bringing above-average temperatures, but rains in the period between August and September, and an abrupt drop in minimum temperatures, brought restoration of optimal conditions for ripening. Prudent vineyard management practices performed during the summer meant that Merlot was ready early, in late August, with an excellent relationship between acidity and polyphenols. Early September saw some rainfall, but the tramontana winds brought dry weather. Following rain on 19 September, the Cabernet harvest took place between 23 September and 3 October. Delicate aromas in the grape skins and pronounced acidities contributed to balance high sugars. This was another undervalued vintage originally, like 2008. The special 30th anniversary bottling. Winemaker Luca Marrone is especially proud of this vintage because it was so satisfying eventually – after crop loss thanks to drought. ‘One of the most satisfying growing seasons, in which the high quality and solid quantity of the grapes were truly the fruit of the priceless efforts of our winegrowers, who demonstrated both expertise and sensitivity.’ At that time he was the vineyard manager who managed to learn a lot from his predecessor who had recently retired. At the end, the fruit was so ripe that they decided to pick the secondary bunches too, which was good for quantity made in 2012. Aged, as usual, 18 months in barrique. Bottle refinement 12 months minimum. Very deep garnet. High-toned. Rich but juicy and very smooth. Hints of prunes, and balsam too. Headily perfumed. Very fine tannins. Zesty again. (JR)

Deep ruby in colour. Austere, cedar oak, toast. Still fairly young, with a light but defined soapy note. Sour cherry and fine herbs. Juicy tannins; pure joy chewing them on the palate. The finish is long and dry. When swallowing, the wine seems to take a leap, a jump at the end of the tongue to go straight into the throat. Probably the biggest surprise of this tasting, underlining that this has been a favourite Bolgheri of mine over the last couple of years. Ageing is made in French oak barrels, followed by 12 months in bottle.