2008 Riesling Clos St Hune
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Tasting notes
Tasted blind. Pale orange. Positively old, rather than mature, on the nose. The previous wine (Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling 2012) shows up what youthful freshness it has lost. Some honeyed character, but bone dry on the palate. Is this a too-old Grosses Gewächs? Not much fruit on the end. A sour note predominates though it does linger on the palate. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Masses of evolution on the nose. Very firm and with so much spine and structure rather than fruit! Very youthful. This should make great old bones – eventually. Very long and for the moment it’s all on the finish. (JR)
The combination of smoky pungency and citric brightness of Trimbach’s 2008 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune is almost eye-wateringly intense – and that’s just on inhaling! In the mouth, the dynamic interplay of energetic, efficacious citrus and white currant with chalk, salt, crushed stone, and apricot kernel will keep you stimulated and intrigued long after the flavors have faded, and that is already a long time. This buoyant, handsomely austere Ste-Hune will not require recharging over the next couple of decades, and in time should put on a truly spectacular display. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com
Bright pale yellow with a green tinge. Wonderfully subtle nose hints at lime oil, quinine, white flowers and crushed stone; an essence of the calcaire�-rich grand cru Rosacker. Densely packed and tightly coiled, with superb cut and penetrating character but at the same time an ineffable delicacy. Bracing acidity gives the finish outstanding energy and lift. As insinuating on the back end as it is on the nose, showing building flavors of crushed stone, oyster shell and ginger. An infant with 25 years of life ahead of it. (Unfortunately, my sample of the Frederic Emile was corked.)