2013 Chambertin

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet that is beautifully defined, succinct use of new oak and wonderful mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, quite high acidity and a bit tarty in character. Precise, very tensile with a stony, slightly austere finish that just fades when you expect/wish for a crescendo or peacock's tail. Hopefully this is just a restless phase for this Grand Cru. Tasted September 2016.

(50% vendange entier ): Bright medium red. Very complex, subtle aromas of raspberry, flowers, licorice, minerals and menthol opened nicely with air. Boasts terrific inner-mouth menthol-and-spice tension, with its juicy dark berry fruit still wound up but already showing a captivating restrained sweetness. Finishes with terrific saline grip and length, the suave tannins perfectly buffered by fruits and minerals. Delivers the energy of the vintage in spades without being particularly austere.

(50% new oak): Dark red. Musky, wild, soil-inflected scents of black raspberry, licorice and dried flowers, plus a hint of espresso. Then rich, sappy and enveloping on the palate, with a subtle stony underpinning to the lightly saline flavors of dark berries, strawberry liqueur and earth. A splendidly rich 2013 with terrific class and inner-mouth tension. Leaves the taste buds vibrating on the slowly building black fruit and licorice finish. A real iron fist in a velvet glove.