2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is one of my favorite wines of the year. It gets as close to Brunello perfection as vinously possible. Fruit is sourced exclusively from the estate's oldest vines in the Vigna Vecchia Mercatale vineyard, the oldest Canalicchio cru. The vines were planted in 1987-1988. They are in their prime production years right now. This is first time the Riserva is made exclusively from that site. The depth of this wine is extraordinary. The wine starts with a playful offering of red fruit and cherry. Like many of the wines from this vintage, the bouquet takes a while to arrive at full intensity. That margin should shorten as the wine continues its cellar aging and evolution. Yet, the slow start to the bouquet is ultimately what drives your interest in this wine. The mouthfeel is exceptional with tannins that are both silky and firm at the same time.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is just as magnificent as it was last year. Since then, the 2010 has acquired an extra dimension of finesse it did not show last year. Powerful yet weightless in the style that is typical of the wines of the north, the Riserva exudes energy, tension and depth. Sweet dark cherry, lavender, herbs, mint and tobacco shape this deeply expressive, virile Riserva built on class. The new oak, which was evident last year, has not subsided and is really only evident in the wine's mid-palate sweetness and texture.

The estate's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva emerges mostly from old vines Canalicchio, with about 10-15% fruit from the family's holdings in Montosoli. The Montosoli fruit spends a few months in French oak, just enough to impart a distinctive signature to the wine. A dark, sumptuous wine, the 2010 Riserva is all about texture. Hints of mocha, smoke, tobacco, new leather and licorice build to a captivating crescendo of aromas and flavors that leaves a lasting impression. The 2010 is a big boy, so it needs time in the cellar. The only question is how long.