1990 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts

Two bottles of the Sylvain Cathiard 1990 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts were opened. The better bottle has a healthy color with some bricking on the rim. The nose is linear compared to other 1990s: reluctantly but eventually acquiescing to reveal singed leather, blackberry, tree bark and undergrowth notes. The palate is medium-bodied and feels surprisingly firm in the mouth considering the vintage. It is not as complex as more recent examples of Les Malconsorts, although there is good depth of fruit and there is no heat on the finish, a characteristic that can sometimes mar wines from this vintage. With time, it offers attractive savory scents that filter through onto the palate, and it seems to settle down. Tasted June 2014.

Two bottles of the Sylvain Cathiard 1990 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts were opened. The better bottle has a healthy color with some bricking on the rim. The nose is linear compared to other 1990s: reluctantly but eventually acquiescing to reveal singed leather, blackberry, tree bark and undergrowth notes. The palate is medium-bodied and feels surprisingly firm in the mouth considering the vintage. It is not as complex as more recent examples of Les Malconsorts, although there is good depth of fruit and there is no heat on the finish, a characteristic that can sometimes mar wines from this vintage. With time, it offers attractive savory scents that filter through onto the palate, and it seems to settle down. Tasted June 2014. Aug 2014, www.robertparker.com