1972 Graham Single Harvest Tawny
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Tasting notes
The 1972 Single Harvest Tawny Port from Graham’s comprises a selection of pipes made by Peter Symington and matured in the lodge at Vila Nova de Gaia. This bottling is limited to nine casks chosen from the remaining 23. It has quite a precise bouquet, featuring hints of tobacco, pressed flowers, camphor and roasted walnut. The palate is very elegant but shows much more weight and density than the 1982. Tangy marmalade, walnut, mandarin, white pepper and fennel all vie for attention. It is not enormously persistent and yet in many ways, it does not need to hang around to make a positive impression. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Peter Symington selected a few barrels of 1972 ports for ageing in seasoned oak casks shortly after the harvest. Having accompanied the maturation of this port in the Gaia lodge, he eventually passed the responsibility on to his son when he retired in 2009. Charles Symington, now head winemaker and taster, selected nine casks for bottling. Darker than the 1982. Really round, rich and massive. Super-charger. This is a power house! Kerpow! Maybe one of the best 1972s made anywhere in the wine world. Very difficult to spit this, it’s so clean and fresh. (JR)
Made just before the revolution. Just nine casks made. This would have been vintage worthy but they didn’t have the courage to make vintage port. But it was the first single harvest to be aged in barrel for selling as a Single Harvest. This has spent 40+ years in cask. 'You can always play with blending an old tawny as opposed to a vintage.' Launched in the 2010s. Lots of freshness. Greenish tinge to the deep, deep tawny. Lively, off-dry, racy, treacly. Higher acidity than a similar vintage but similar sweetness. Very flirtatious. So clean! Very elegant. (JR)
One of the first single-harvest tawnies made by Peter Symington after his family company acquired Graham in 1970. He nursed it through decades in wood before passing it on to his son and winemaking heir Charles in 2009. In 2015 Charles selected nine of the casks to bottle and release. Beautifully lustrous, shaded pale tawny. Toffee and a hint of rancio on the nose. Raisins and cut peel with a hint of eucalyptus. A host of Christmassy flavours indeed. But it's light and fresh on the finish. This is something very special. Transparent rather than heavy. In its smart but not OTT packaging, it would make a great Christmas gift. Urge the recipient there is no point in giving it any bottle age. (JR)