2014 Montlandrie

Impressively aromatic floral and cassis notes on the attack, with a little touch of austerity from the Cabernet Sauvignon, which is still very present. The tannins are firm but fine, providing a base for the acidity to gently lift the fruit though the palate. 2014 was the first year that included the production of young vines, planted in 2011 across half of the vineyard. 70% was aged in oak, half of which was new.

The 2014 Montlandrie, the Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux from Denis Durantou, is a blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon (yes, different to the percentages stated during primeur—happy to correct it now!). It offers attractive red cherry, wild strawberry and pastille-like scents on the pure bouquet, though maybe I discern a little more complexity on Denis' two Lalande-de-Pomerols, La Chenade and Les Cruzelles. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. This feels a little compact at the moment (possibly because of the low pressure system on the day that I tasted?), although there is still commendable depth of fruit and a gentle grip on the persistent finish. I would just give this a couple more years in bottle.

The 2014 Montlandrie is gorgeous. Dark, sensual and inviting, it offers up a compelling mélange of dark red cherry, sage, tobacco, menthol and licorice. Pliant and expressive, this is a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Feb 2017, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2017-2024