2009 Chablis Blanchots

The 2009 Chablis Les Blanchots is another of the relatively immediate wines in this lineup. Layers of expressive fruit fill out the wine’s broad shouldered frame nicely. This is an unusually refined, polished Blanchots. The style built on volume rather than minerality will appeal most to readers who like richer Chablis. Laroche aged 30% of the wine in barrel. The balance is impeccable. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Pale yellow. Tangy soft citrus aromas along with a note of flinty, leesy reduction; a bit youthfully closed today. Tight on the palate but with very good intensity to the slightly saline stone fruit flavors. An iodiney calcaire note and brisk acidity give the finish a penetrating quality. This needs aeration or time in bottle: I'd wait a few years. This has turned out very well.

Nine months on lees, 30% in oak barrels. Delicate but quite complex aromas. Mineral and a little salty. Fresh lemon. Some sweetness of oak and a gentle creaminess. Correct and quite long but no great depth. (JH)