1994 Vina Tondonia Blanco

I think the mid-nineties were an era of more ripeness, extraction and oak even in the more traditional wineries, and a bottle of the 1994 Viña Tondonia Reserva—with a different label and sold as part of a box set that also includes the 1977 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva and a one-off "joven" 2000 Viña Tondonia—shows the effect of that era. The wine is round and a little creamy, ripe and juicy, with glossy tannins and a lush personality but without the character, finesse and nuance of other vintages. The wine is ready and should stay like that for years, but I don't foresee it improving in bottle.