2014 Ermitage L'Ermite

Full bottle 1,396 g. Certified organic and biodynamic. Syrah on shallow, sandy, leached, brown soils over very poor Tournon granite at the top of the Hermitage hill, near the chapel. 120-year-old vines. Very late harvesting by hand. Grapes 100% destalked and vinified in concrete tanks. Four- to six-week maceration at up to 30 °C and above to encourage polymerisation of tannins. Only free-run. 20% of the wine is aged in new barrels, 20% in second-use barrels, 30% in third-use barrels and the balance in concrete vats. Luscious, limpid ruby – not that dense. Fresh and racy with real lift but not that much concentration. Lots of acidity and life but I'd be inclined to see what happens to this wine at, say 15 years old. A very strong statement against too much concentration. Bone-dry finish and a sinewy palate. I will decant it … but it still wasn't as thrilling as I'd have expected. Perhaps more time is needed. (JR)

The 2014 L'Ermite comes from a charming, moderately concentrated vintage, but you wouldn’t know that by tasting this wine. Awesome notes of scorched earth, charcoal, crushed violets, and pure crème de cassis all emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a stacked mid-palate, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish. It doesn’t have the sheer mass of fruit of the 2009, 2010, or 2015, yet it’s flawlessly balanced and a beautiful wine.

Lurid violet. Sexy dark berry preserve, floral pastille and spicecake scents are complemented by suggestions of woodsmoke, licorice and cracked pepper. Round and expansive on the palate, offering appealingly sweet boysenberry and cherry preserve flavors and a touch of star anise. Closes supple, smoky and extremely long, displaying lingering spiciness and smooth tannins.