2013 Bonnes Mares

Cuvée #1, from vines on the southern, Chambolle side of the cru: Bright, deep red. Terrific lift and thrust to the aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice pastille and tar. The palate boasts outstanding intensity and density to the powerful flavors of black fruits, pepper and spices: this is almost painful today but already offers considerable sex appeal. Finishes fine-grained and sweet but tight and primary, with substantial late-arriving tannins. Cuvée #2, from vines on the northern Morey side: Musky, soil-driven aromas of red berries and iron. Smoother and sweeter than #1 but with terrific mineral energy framing the middle palate and extending the finish. An approximation of the final blend: Bright, dark red. Knockout nose combines raspberry, mocha, licorice and crushed rock. At once compellingly silky and light on its feet, showing outstanding lift to its saline berry and soil flavors. An utterly seamless Bonnes-Mares with great sweetness and uncanny length. I find the blend better than either of the two components, but there is still a slight chance that there will be separate N and S bottlings of this juice.

The 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is initially a moody bastard. But it opens gloriously with black cherries, blueberry and violet scents that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with firm ripe tannins. It is quite masculine and austere (especially for a Bonnes-Mares) with a closed but compelling finish. I suggest giving this serious decanting 3-5 hours before serving. Jun 2015, www.robertparker.com