2013 Chablis Clos des Hospices

Bright yellow. Musky aromas of tangerine, orange zest and smoky lees. Tactile, zesty and intense, conveying a slightly phenolic character to the concentrated ripe fruit and smoky mineral flavors owing to the very small berries here--and perhaps to the slightly "newer" oak used for this wine than for the regular Clos. The long, palate-dusting finish gives an impression of full ripeness without heaviness.

The 2013 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices is a bit awkward today, most of which can probably be attributed to the late harvest and malos, both of which also mean the Clos was sulfured after the other wines in the cellar. Smoke, slate, sage and dried pear notes open up over time, yet the 2013 never fully blossoms, especially on the mid-palate. I expect the Clos des Hospices will show much better once it has had time to fully come together. The 2013 was vinified 55% in steel and 45% in barrel.

Healthy bright yellow. Fresh apricot and flint on the nose; less expressive today than the regular Clos. Then rich and ripe but dry and backward, showing a slightly exotic quality to its lemon, white currant, lichee and menthol flavors. Still a touch of youthful bitterness here. Seems to be evolving more slowly than the regular Clos--and much tougher to taste today. Both this wine and the Clos began in 40% oak.