2012 Griotte Chambertin
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Tasting notes
Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru from Laurent Ponsot has a voluminous nose, though there is a stalky element that is not totally combined with the black and red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, quite linear in the mouth, structured but like the Griotte-Chambertin 2012 from Réné Leclerc, it seems to be lacking some flesh and charm towards the finish. That said, it does develop in the glass, offering hidden notes of blueberry and a hint of crème de cassis, so I would advise not broaching a bottle for two or three years.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Refined and subtle on the nose. Lots of frank fruit. Racy and sweet. A lovely combo. Full of exuberance and bittersweet fruit. Real lift on the palate. It prances. (JR)
The 2012 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a lush, well-defined, sensual bouquet with perfumed boysenberry, black cherry and blueberry scents reminiscent of Bonnes-Mares. The palate is underpinned by fine, tensile tannins and there is a wonderful silver thread of acidity. Quite compact towards the finish, this Griotte has good substance and length, probably deserving of 5-6 year in bottle before broaching. Very fine. Laurent Ponsot, when he is not the Lone Ranger fighting alleged fraud, is busy making wine in his own individual way from his winery perched on the higher reaches overlooking Morey village. As ever, he is refreshingly candid in his views, passionate about the tenets he applies to winemaking, but always counterbalanced with tongue-in-cheek humor. I concentrated on the premier and grand cru 2012s since he was just about to bottle his village crus after one year and they were not ready. He told me that he commenced picking on 3 October, several days later than most winemakers, a date that he assured me he knew as far back as June due to natural indicators, whatever they may be. Yields averaged around 19 hectoliters per hectare, lower for the grand crus, while his famous Aligote from Monts Luisants was wiped out by oidium not from the vines, but from the nearby forest that pricked the flavor of the wine. (I did mischievously quip that I knew of someone in the United States who might be able to rustle some up if so desired – I could not help myself). What I like about Laurent’s wines is that they are edgy, uncompromising, occasionally “Marmite” wines that perhaps like the man himself, goes out to divide opinion and create debate. His strict use of old barrels combined with a dizzying array of grand crus combine to create distinct wines that tend to wear their heart of their sleeves. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802, Atherton Wine Imports (CA) and through Geodhuis & Co in the UK.
The 2012 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a lush, well-defined, sensual bouquet with perfumed boysenberry, black cherry and blueberry scents reminiscent of Bonnes-Mares. The palate is underpinned by fine, tensile tannins and there is a wonderful silver thread of acidity. Quite compact towards the finish, this Griotte has good substance and length, probably deserving of 5-6 year in bottle before broaching. Very fine. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Domaine Ponsot is one of the most well-known estates in the Côte de Nuits, famed for owning three of the original four hectares of the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. The legendary domaine also produces another nine Grand Cru cuvées.