2012 Nuits St Georges Clos de la Marechale Blanc

Lemon, crushed rocks, mint, wild flowers and slate all jump from the glass in the 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de La Maréchale Blanc. A wine of tension and energy, the 2012 is showing beautifully today. Readers who can find this impeccably balanced white Burgundy should not hesitate.

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Clos de Marechale Blanc has a pretty bouquet with plenty of tropical scents that are nicely controlled, with hints of lemon curd and dried pineapple joining the fray with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with a spicy, almost resinous entry that is reminiscent of a southern Rhone in some ways. The light honeyed tones are attractive, while the finish is controlled and expresses the minerality with style. Jacques-Frederic usually produces around 150 barrels of red Clos de Marechale, but a hailstorm on July 4 depleted the crop to just 66 barrels. It is three years since I last visited Frederic Mugnier at his impressive ivy-clad maison in Chambolle that seems to rule the roost in the clustered village. This is a producer whose wines, I must confess, I was indifferent to when I began tasting Burgundy wine. For sure, there were plenty of plaudits. However, with the odd exception, I could not engage with the wines and was not overly keen on how they evolved in bottle. As the years have rolled by, I have appreciated the wines more and more. Has my palate changed? I do not think so. Rather, Frederic has fine-tuned and adapted his approach and I sense he feels more comfortable and confident in his practices. We had a frank interchange about new oak. Nowadays he has reduced the percentage to about 15%, even for the Musigny Grand Cru. Could he envisage not using new oak at all in the future? Frederic said it could be possible and he seemed wary of unclean elements that may lurk inside new barrels and affect the purity of wines. As such, the more classical, refined style of Pinot Noir suits Mugnier to the ground. I adored the subtlety, freshness and precision of these nascent 2012s that at their peak constitute some of the finest wines of the vintage. The following wines were all tasted from used barrels in September 2013. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)