2008 Toscana Sangiovese

Now that Gianfranco Soldera no longer makes Brunello di Montalcino, the 2008 100% Sangiovese is an IGT wine. The bouquet is slightly disjointed and abrupt, especially in terms of its initial impact. The wine offers fluid tones of dried fruit, balsam herb and dried apple skin that change and evolve quickly as the wine opens in the glass. After a few moments, it begins to show pretty tones of cola, licorice and tar that recall some of the most celebrated traits associated with aged Sangiovese. In the mouth, the wine is sharp, pointed and thorny. As Soldera's track record has proven, the wine should flesh out with more years of cellar aging, although given the succession of misdirected aromas, it's hard to tell if this wine will ever find true balance.

After the highly unusual and exotic 2007, the 2008 Toscana Sangiovese marks a return to a more classic Soldera style. Here the flavors are quite bold and savory, while the structure is that of a wine built for aging. Sage, rosemary, tobacco, mint and leather notes wrap around a core of dark red stone fruits as this vivid, crystalline wine shows off its personality and pedigree. Readers lucky enough to find the 2008 are in for a thrill.

The 2008 vintage was characterised by very good weather that ended with the starting of the harvest on Saturday 28 September and – as usual – finished in two days on the 30 September. The fermentation process was regular, without any problems and went on for 20 days. Ageing was 63 months long. Total dry extract 32.4 g/l. Total available was 9,000 bottles. So different from most Brunello! Reserved nose of autumnal leaves. Very rich and healthy tasting with real tang on the end. Very elegant. Already fine and fresh. So clean! Warm and rich underneath. But super fresh on top. (JR)