2012 Nuits St Georges Les Chaignots

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots from Mugneret-Gibourg has an upfront, modern bouquet with plenty of lavish dark cherry, red plum fruit layered with new oak, though some assiduous winemaking means that it has maintained its terroir expression and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannins and well-judged acidity. The sumptuous aspect of this wine suggests more Vosne-Romanée than Nuits-Saint Georges, its satin-like texture irresistible on the finish. I suspected this to be Mugneret-Gibourg and so it turned out. It's one of those bottles you'll finish to the very last drop.

Full medium red. Slightly high-toned aromas of dark cherry, Moroccan spices and flowers, plus a suggestion of darker berries. Shows a slight smoky reduction on the palate but this dense, juicy wine nonetheless comes across as more sharply delineated than the Vosne villages . Finishes ripely tannic, aromatic and long.

Lots of sappy, spicy oak upfront and firm tannins on the palate – rather overtly 'made' – although that’s not to distract from the result, which is quite delicious, and has appropriately firm structure for the origin. Good density – dark, savoury, serious and satisfying. (RH)