1993 Clos Vougeot

Confuron's Clos de Vougeot offers a smorgasbord of overripe red and black fruits. Over-ripeness, or sur-maturitie, is not a characteristic of most 1993s, but somehow Confuron managed to obtain this positive attribute. The sweet, jammy nose of red and black fruits is buttressed by attractive, smoky, toasty vanillin from new oak. Medium to full-bodied, backward, with plenty of tannin, as well as wonderfully ripe fruit and glycerin, this rich, spicy, impressively endowed wine should drink well between 1998-2010. A potential superstar may be emerging. It is no secret why this estate's wines have become superb as opposed to merely good. The domaine now practices extensive crop thinning, with average yields of under 30 hectoliters per hectare, even in abundant vintages such as 1992. These are powerful, rich wines that are bottled early to protect their intense, concentrated fruit. Confuron enjoyed stunning success in such tough years as 1991 and 1992, as well as in 1993. The old days of musty, vegetal, over-cropped wines are surely a thing of the past. The daughter of the late Jean-Jacques Confuron, Sophie Meunier, and her husband, Alain, deserve many a kudo for this domaine's remarkable renaissance. For three consecutive years this estate has bottled its wines without fining or filtration. Additionally, the wines are only racked before bottling, so there is 15-18 months of extended lees contact. The grand crus are aged in 100% new French oak, and the premier crus in 80%. One of Burgundy's finest estates, the Meuniers are doing everything to ensure the highest quality wines emerge. Their 1993s are certainly among the superstars of the vintage. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083