1974 Barolo

Luigi Pira's 1974 Barolo is a throwback to another era, another generation, another moment in time. A staunch traditionalist, Pira insisted on crushing his grapes by foot and making wine without any mechanical intervention. The 1974 was a blend of fruit from several sites; Cannubi, S. Lorenzo, Prea, Vignane and Via Nuova, as was the custom at the time. Fully mature yet translucent, the 1974 is weightless and lifted in the glass, with striking inner perfume, delicate yet sinewy tannins and exceptional overall balance. I tasted two bottles of this wine from different sources within a week. The better bottle was utterly mesmerizing, timeless and a moving example of what traditionally-made Barolo is all about. Chiara Boschis bought the property in 1990 following Luigi Pira's death. After an early period of super-modern wines, Boschis has moved back to a much more middle of the road style. Maybe there is something in these walls that just cries for a certain kind of wine to be made.