2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder

Bright medium ruby. Captivating nose combines crushed cassis and blueberry, licorice, bitter chocolate, peppery herbs and a musky whiff of truffley underbrush. Plush, voluminous and deep; the largest and broadest of this superb set of 2011 cabernets, with seamless dark berry and pepper flavors complemented by sexy, perfectly integrated oak. Finishes thick and very long, with remarkably ripe tannins for the year. Although it's approachable now, I'd wait 5 years and then enjoy this big boy over the following 10 or 12.

Flirting with perfection, which is almost unheard of in this vintage, is the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder. Along with Betty O-Shaughnessey, Lokoya appears to have produced one of the finest Cabernet Sauvignons made from this underrated and diverse terroir. Seamlessly constructed, this opaque purple-colored 2011 offers up aromas of pen ink, acacia flowers, forest floor, blueberries, blackberries and cassis intermixed with hints of espresso, chocolate and subtle earthy notes. Wonderfully ripe and voluptuously textured, this beautiful, full-bodied wine should continue to drink well for another 15-20 years. Lokoya has long been one of the bright shining stars in the Kendall-Jackson Small Estates portfolio. The fact that all four of their 2011 Cabernets were among the best wines I tasted in this vintage reflects many things, among them, (1) the exceptional commitment to quality, (2) the brilliance of the vineyards and winemaker Christopher Carpenter, (3) these mountain vineyards were less affected by the challenging weather conditions of rain and fog in early and mid-October, and (4) the winemaking team had the patience to wait for perfect ripeness before harvesting these limited production cuvees. The production is even smaller than usual in 2011, ranging from 200 cases for the Diamond Mountain and Spring Mountain, 260 cases for the Howell Mountain and 840 cases for the prodigious Mt. Veeder. Tel. (707) 948-1968

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder is gorgeous, but it is also going to require the most time of these wines to come together. Firm tannins provide the backbone for an exciting array of aromas and flavors. Intense savory and mineral notes meld into layers of blue/blackish fruit in a big, full-bodied Cabernet endowed with stunning depth and structure. All the best elements of the house style come together. With time in the glass the fruit opens up to balance some of the tannic heft, but this is without question a wine made for the cellar.