2010 Barolo Ca'Mia

Serralunga. Youthful-looking mid ruby. Powerful nose but not really open. Leafy cherry. Very reluctant and tannic but beautifully by concentrated fruit on the finish. Rich, impressive tannic structure. Serious, compelling stuff. (WS)

Smoke, tar, earthiness and licorice add gorgeous dimensions of complexity in the 2010 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia. Here, too, the flavors are remarkably bright and focused. The dark, brooding notes of Serralunga are very much present, but the 2010 impresses for its pure balance, harmony and class. Dried rose petals, spices, licorice and game add complexity on a huge finish supported by big, incisive tannins. This is another utterly vivid, dazzling Barolo from Brovia. Here, too, readers will note a slight name change.

Good deep red. Wild aromas and flavors of plum, redcurrant, minerals, underbrush, mocha and dried flowers. Huge, thick and utterly seamless, boasting terrific density to its extremely primary wall of fruit. This wonderfully fine-grained young Barolo conveys a powerful impression of dry extract. For all its power, there's nothing hard about it and its tannins are remarkably fine-grained. The inexorable finish is extremely youthful.