2001 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi

Brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino operate out of a tiny cellar in Monforte that gives new meaning to the term “garage wine.” The estate produces two Barolos from the prestigious Dardi zone of Bussia, as well as an extraordinary sweet wine made from dried Nebbiolo. For his Barolos, Fantino does a fermentation and maceration of roughly 20 days, after which the wines undergo malolactic fermentation in steel. The Barolo Dardi is aged in barriques, while the Riserva is aged in slightly larger barrels. The real showstopper though is the Nebbiolo passito, Nepas, which is one of the most unique, compelling sweet wines I have ever tasted. Imagine a profound Recioto but with the full range aromatics and flavors of a first-rate Barolo and you get some sense of what this wine is all about. Fantino’s ethereal 2001 Barolo Dardi offers a delicate, balsamic nose typical of Bussia, along with sweet fruit, spice, mineral and toasted oak notes on a classic, medium-bodied frame that bridges traditional and modern styles. It will benefit from a few additional years of cellaring and should drink well to age 20. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2021. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

(sampled from tank) Good deep red. Liqueur-like raspberry and rose petal on the confectionery, perfumed nose. This has wonderful fruit in the mouth, with a lovely creaminess of tex ture but also firm grip. Floral, rich and sweet, but not yet expansive. "Not yet complete" is the way Fantino describes this still-young vintage. Should prove to be the best of the '99-'01 trio.