2013 Condrieu Les Terrasses de l'Empire

(aged entirely in used barriques ): Green-tinged straw. High-pitched lemon, lime and quince scents, with deeper notes of honey and sweet butter emerging slowly. Taut, mineral-driven orchard and citrus fruits on the palate, with a touch of honeysuckle gaining power with aeration. Shows excellent clarity and lift on the persistent mineral-driven finish.

The only 2013 from Condrieu I was able to taste, the 2013 Condrieu Les Terrasses de l’Empire is another smoking white from this estate that does everything right. Classic, pure, with terrific minerality in its tangerine, dried pineapple, citrus and orange-blossom-scented bouquet, this beauty is fresh and focused on the palate, with juicy acidity, medium-bodied depth and richness and a seamless, gulpable style that’s impossible to resist. Drink it over the coming 2-3 years.

2013 had a bad spring, which was cold and wet, leading to extensive coulure – so the yield was very low – 15 hl/ha. Bottled in July 2014. Aged in steel and oak, none of which is new. Banana candy, apricot and peach, sweet and fruity and with a lovely peach fuzz texture. Higher acid than you might expect from Viognier. Great clarity of flavour – complex and distinct range of stone fruits; varietally spot on. (RH)