2005 Hermitage Blanc

The 2005 Hermitage blanc is an amazing effort that defines the classic style of white Hermitage. It offers hints of marzipan, roasted hazelnuts, quince, licorice, honeysuckle, citrus oil, and wet stones. It is a superbly concentrated and powerful wine. It should drink well for 30+ years. A bastion of traditionalism and terroir-sensitive winemaking, the Chaves, both father Gerard and son Jean-Louis, continue to establish higher and higher standards for artisanal, high quality winemaking without manipulation or compromise. As I have said many times in the past, after more than two dozen visits to their cellars in Mauves, the Chave address remains one of the most extraordinary places of learning in the wine world. Most importantly, they have had a remarkable succession of successful vintages that began in 1994. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Pale gold. Fabulously complex nose evokes honeyed pear, apricot, shiso leaf and botanical herbs. Creamy orchard fruit flavors are firmed by juicy minerality, becoming brighter and more bitter with air. This has the texture of a serious red wine, offering dense, chewy pear, yellow plum and peach skin flavors and picking up licorice and toasted nuts on the long, sappy finish, which ends with a whiplash of smoky minerals. Does this ever let up? An incredible young wine.