2010 Barolo Vigna del Gris
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The 2010 Barolo Vigna del Gris comes from 30-year-old vines and southeast exposures (not far from where the legendary Monfortino wine is made). A vein of sandy soil in the vineyard makes for special conditions that favor delicate aromas of blue flower, forest fruit, ash and brimstone. In essence, this is a sharply focused and linear expression that leaves a direct and long-lasting impact in the mouth. Drink: 2017-2028. Founded in1982 by in laws Guido Fantino and Claudio Conterno, this carefully remodeled and refurbished estate is located atop one of the highest hills in Monforte d’Alba. From a glass lookout point in the winery, you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the town’s church steeples and skyline. The property includes 26 hectares of vine (Conterno Fantino does not buy fruit) for a production of 140,000 bottles per year. Some 25,000 bottles are Barolo. Starting in 2014, wines will be certified organic. It does not produce a “base” Barolo, choosing instead to focus on its Langhe Nebbiolo. Importer: Empson USA, www.empsonusa.com
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
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The 2010 Barolo Vigna del Gris is beautiful, layered and expressive. Sweet tobacco, mint, licorice, crushed flowers and plums meld together in a supple, gracious wine for the year. Sweet rose petals and mint add an attractive upper register of trademark aromatics and perfume as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2010 remains dense and compact, but it is impossible to miss that the tannins here are more refined than has typically been the case with the Gris in the past, which is probably the result of vines getting older. The 2010 needs time to unwind, but it is quite pretty and full of potential. Conterno-Fantino gave the 2010 a year in 100% new French oak, followed by a year in a combination of equal parts barrique and cask.
Red-ruby. Black cherry, menthol and a whiff of candied dark berries on the nose. The palate offers a captivating combination of lush, fine-grained texture and energy, with the black fruit and sweet oak flavors already displaying terrific definition. Finishes juicy and very long, with brisk acidity and smooth tannins that gain power with air.
A wine with blueberry and spice character, plus hints of flowers. Medium to full body with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Better in 2017. Apr 2014, JamesSuckling.com