2009 Barolo Vigna Marenca

Commune of Serralunga. Mid ruby with orange-tinged rim. Dark, and sweet brooding nose. Very concentrated and almost jammy fruit, but the finish has real bite and an attractive tannic charge. (WS)

Slightly muddled upon first examination, the 2009 Barolo Marenca attains aromatic sharpness after a few brief moments the way a movie projector reaches focus on the big screen. This is a youthful and fleshy expression of Nebbiolo with a fruit-driven bouquet of cherry, wild berry and prune. With a few stern swirls of the glass, it reveals herbal tones with licorice and menthol notes. Those beautiful characteristics linger long on the palate. Marenca is firmly tannic with the bright acidity necessary for cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. Gianpaolo Pira feels an enormous attachment to his land of origin, Serralunga d’Alba, with its vineyards, rolling landscapes and secret truffle locations. His goal is to produce wines that capture the spirit of his territory. Serralunga d’Alba is a wildly beautiful and dramatic corner of the Barolo appellation. It’s the most rustic and rugged of them all, and its vineyards usually produce the boldest expressions of Nebbiolo. He has largely succeeded at his task, although some wines are more elegant that others in 2009. Various American Importers, including: De Grazia Imports, Republic; MO; tel. (417) 732-1668; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Park Ridge, IL; tel. (630) 422-1119

The 2009 Barolo Vigna Marenca has a bit more depth and richness in its fruit, something this vintage desperately needs. Black fruit melds into darker, earthier hints of iron, graphite, savory herbs and licorice. The tannins remain firm, but there is enough fruit for the 2009 to drink well for at least a handful of years.