2003 Clos Vougeot

Full red-ruby. Fresh but inexpressive nose hints at kirsch, licorice and minerals. Lively in the mouth but quite reserved and not yet showing its personality or sweetness. But this is a firmly structured, intensely flavored wine with a serious tannic spine. Here's a 2003 that really calls for a decade of patience-and a wine that should eventually merit an even higher rating.

(not yet sulfited) Deep ruby-red. Somewhat reduced aromas of wild berries, flowers and minerals. Wonderfully sweet in the mouth, with flavors of raspberry, cherry and minerals. Offers excellent verve and lift for young Clos Vougeot. Finishes long and bright, with very fine tannins that coat the teeth and cheeks. Grivot feels he has learned to tame the tannins of his Clos Vougeot in the last four or five years and has been able to make wines that are less monolithic and severe in their youth. He notes that these deep soils were favored in 2003.

Very, very deep crimson. Strong perfume and a wonderful spread of fruit across the palate. Very chewy, but I think it will get there in the end – there is certainly enough of a core and lots going on in its not-entirely-evident-yet depths. (JR)