2012 Corton Charlemagne

This is the parcel they swapped with Patrick Bize. On the Pernand side: en Charlemagne. Racked in September in tank to be bottled in spring. Needs to fine still. Lots of interest, honey and juice. Quite distinctive. Very nervy but rich with a certain herbiness and lots of excitement. Still quite chewy but should have a long life. Not heavy but dense. Not sweet at all but chiselled. Bracing. (JR)

The 2012 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru had been racked into stainless steel vat and ready for bottling soon after a light fining. It has a crisp bouquet with fresh lime, pineapple and orange blossom developing in the glass. The palate has a lovely, very phenolic on the opening with peach skin and fresh pear notes, fine acidity and an elegant charming finish. This is a gorgeous Corton-Charlemagne. Christophe Roumier was multitasking when I arrived at his domaine in Chambolle-Musigny: his mobile constantly trilling and tasting parties arriving in haphazard fashion, running here and running there. And as we know, men are not cut out for multitasking. No wonder he complained about his headache, though hopefully the aspirin, washed down with a glug of Musigny, relieved his mal de tete. But generally Christophe Roumier was in top form – just like his wines. He commenced the harvest on 22 September after the usual travails of the growing season that reduced his crops. He rued the fact that he is undergoing an expansion of his cellars, but after 2012 and a meagre 2013, has little to put in them. He suggested a comparison between 2010 and 2012, though the latter is less tannic and more “weightless” – a great word to describe many of this vintage’s wines. This year there is all but one and a half barrels of his elusive Musigny. It is an utterly transcendental wine, perhaps equal to the 2005 when I encountered that out of barrel, but if that proves just a wee bit difficult to find, then the Clos de la Bussieres is a quite brilliant Morey Saint Denis that will offer immense pleasure over the next 20 years. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600