2009 Barolo Ca'Mia
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Tasting notes
(with the 2010 release, this wine will say Brea Ca' Mia on the label): Bright red. Captivatingly fresh, primary aromas of raspberry, minerals and flowers are accented by a sappy note of blood orange; reminded me a bit of a topnotch Burgundy from Vosne or Chambolle. Sweet and thick but with lovely acidity giving the wine a strong impression of inner-mouth tension. A step up in density and fullness from the foregoing wines, with its Serralunga limestone pungency coming through loud and clear. Finishes very long and horizontal, with serious but well-buffered tannins and excellent menthol lift. Wonderfully elegant and perfumed Barolo from a south/southeast-facing vineyard that is spared the hottest afternoon sun.
Critic scores
Average Score
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Commune of Serralunga. Just mid ruby with watery rim. Balsamic and herbal and firmly closed on the nose. Aromatic cherry fruit that is still to build a unity with the muscular tannins. Fantastic crude material. Long! (WS)
My money is on the 2009 Barolo Ca’ Mia for the longest aging potential of the bunch. The intensity and richness is bountiful, and seductive aromatic layers of dried fruit, licorice, tar, button mushroom and tobacco lift off the glass with building intensity. The wine’s texture is firmer and the length is decisively more rewarding. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100
In this hot vintage the 2009 Barolo Ca' Mia appears to have handled the weather best of all the wines in the range, which isn't that much of a shock, considering that the more compact soils of Serralunga are at an advantage in warmer years. Firm tannins provide the backdrop for a serious core of dark red fruit, flowers, iron, tar and licorice, all of which seem to literally jump out of the glass. The 2009 has more than enough fruit and sheer depth to age well for a number of years.